Playful Vegan Dishes at a New Grocery in Manhattan

No, that is not smoked salmon in the deli case of the new vegan Orchard Grocer. It is smoked carrots effectively presented in salmon garb — sliced thin, the color of sockeye, and well cured in the kinds of pickling spices used for the fish. “I want to be playful and witty,” said Joya Carlton, the executive chef and an alumna of Butcher’s Daughter and Buvette. Ms. Carlton shows her Virginia roots with “pulled” jackfruit, shredded in barbecue sauce on a bun. Orchard Grocer is owned by the sisters Sara and Erica Kubersky, who also own MooShoes next door, and carries nut-milk cheeses, condiments, chocolates and other foods. “This whole world of vegan has exploded,” Ms. Carlton said: Orchard Grocer, 78 Orchard Street (Broome Street), 646-757-9910,